Here is just a collection of things that I enjoy and will give you a better idea of the world I live in....
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thanks - Mike


ferroequinologist (n)


Latin ferrum iron + Latin equus horse + -logist
A railroad or model railroad enthusiast. (From Dow's Dictionary of Railway Quotations.) "Ferroequino" derives from the Latin for "iron horse," an early term for a locomotive.


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Friday, June 6, 2008

Problems with dirty track?

One of the things that frustrates model railroaders is maintenance in the form of cleaning track. There are opposing camps and its almost a religious battle regarding replacement of the factory wheel sets on older and cheaper rolling stock from the plastic to steel wheels.
I have started to convert everything I have to steel wheels (most new rolling stock that is worth its weight will have them already). They sound better rolling down the line, add a bit more weight to the rolling stock and (in my opinion) they keep the track clean in the long run.
The primary reason this works (I believe) is that steel wheel dissipate electrostatic accumulation where as plastic wheels store energy which attracts dust and dirt and distributes it to the rails.
As for choice, I personally like the Intermountain steel wheels, 33" for freight and 36" for passenger cars. They are dead-on in guage and scale, look good and the needles are machined perfectly.
When converting Tyco or Model Power you will need to open up the needle pockets (I use an Ex-acto blade tip to bore out) on the trucks a bit to allow for a good "spin" but Blue Box Athearn, Walthers, and Roundhouse are install and go.
If your planning on weathering your rolling stock or really if you not planning too, paint the inner hubs with rust color, it really makes the wheels pop. Even new prototype rolling stock right out of the factory will have rusty wheel sets.
The Intermountain wheels will run you about $2.50ish per car but they are well worth the investment in operation and you wont be a cleaning track more than running on it.

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